The Cathedral Sainte–Marie sits atop a rocky outcrop in the foothills of the Midi-Pyrenees - encircled by the ancient walled village of St Bertrand de Comminges. The cathedral, which rises to 515m (1700 feet) dominates the surrounding countryside and is a landmark across the whole of the Garonne basin.
It's positioning is not accidental – it commands all the major routes in and out of the central Pyrenees, including the old roman roads to Tarbes, Luchon, Spain, and Toulouse. It has been a major centre of pilgrimage since medieval times and today is still an important stop over for those on their way to Compostella.
The cathedral also draws thousands of secular visitors each year to admire the wonderful architecture and to listen to the famous organ. The international festival of organ music is held annually in July and August and there is also an international academy of music.
Architectural History of the Cathedral of St Bertrand
The design of the cathedral is particularly interesting because within one nave and one roof stands three different churches:
1: The remains of the Romanesque church and cloisters of the 12th century were founded by St Bertrand himself, who restored the ruins left by religious vandals some 500 years earlier.
2: The gothic church of the 14th century with it’s radiating side chapels and cross-ridged vault.
3: The renaissance church of the 16th century with it’s ornate carved wooden choir and organ case.
Architectural Highlights:
The cloister is small but beautifully formed. It stands on the south side of the cathedral and has four galleries set around a courtyard. Three of the galleries are Romanesque and feature Romanesque arches resting on a double row of columns decorated with carved foliage, animals, and illustrated rustic scenes.
The 4th gallery and the most southern is unusual in that it opens out onto the surrounding countryside, offering a framed panorama across the foothills.
St Bertrand’s Mausoleum.
So grateful were the parishioners and bishopric alike for the work that Bertrand de l’isle undertook, that in 1218 he was canonised. His relics became such an attraction that in the early 1400’s the majestic mausoleum was erected to house his mortal remains.
Built in stone it is covered with painted scenes showing the miracles he performed and there is a silver plated bust of the saint set within an altar niche.
On the other side – reached by a set of steps- is the impressive silver and ebony reliquary where St Bertrand lies.
The Wooden Choir.
The closed wooden choir built in the centre of the nave was designed to allow the cannons to withdraw from the congregation to recite the service.
There are 66 stalls in two tiers. Each consists of a hinged seat with another narrow ‘misercorde’ seat underneath. Each seat has arms which are heavily decorated. The upper stalls have a high panelled back and a canopy or ‘baldaquin’ above. These too are decorated with a long frieze. The carved subjects range from the Virgin Mary and the Saints to mythological and profane subjects. There is a wealth of intricate detail which bears closer inspection but perhaps the most wonderful example is the l’abre de Jesu – which lies to the right of the choir entrance, and shows the family tree of Jesus and Mary.
Practical Information:
The cathedral (tel: 05 61 95 44 44)is open 9-12 and 2 –6 all year round, with longer continuous opening hours in the summer months.
Please be advised to avoid visiting during times of worship as parts of the church will be unavailable.
Admission charges: the cathedral is free.
To visit the cloisters and Choir:
Adults €4,
Schoolchildren and students: €1.50
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